Exploring Bolivia: A Local's Travel Guide

Bolivia is a landlocked country in the heart of South America, known for its dramatic landscapes, from pristine rainforests to high-altitude salt flats. The country is diverse, with the Andean mountains, the tropical Gran Chiquitania region, the arid Chaco wilderness, and the Amazon Basin, covering about a third of the country.

Bolivia's topography, size, and lack of basic infrastructure make getting around a challenge. The majority of its road network is unpaved, and most main roads are in poor condition. The much-reduced train network covers only a small fraction of the country. In parts of the Amazon lowlands, riverboats are the main means of transportation.

Bolivia's buses (flotas) are run by private companies and go pretty much everywhere, despite the often appalling road conditions. The terminals often have information offices, but the number of different companies operating the same route can make it difficult to work out departure times and frequencies.

The terminals usually charge a small fee for the use of the terminal, and buses on many longer-distance routes travel only at night. The major long-distance intercity routes are served by more modern and comfortable buses, often equipped with reclining seats and TVs. Some routes are also served by comparatively luxurious overnight sleeper buses (bus-camas).

The Bolivian air force operates passenger services under its commercial arm, Transporte Aereo Militar (TAM). TAM is often cheaper than other airlines and flies to some out-of-the-way places not served by others.

The best place to find a lorry is around any town's market areas or at the police checkpoints at the edge of town. Most also stop for passengers who flag them down at the side of the road. This is the closest you'll get to hitching in Bolivia, and you will always be expected to pay something for the ride.

Taxis can be found anywhere at any time in almost any town and offer a cheap and safe way to get around. In Bolivia, anyone can turn their car into a taxi just by sticking a sign in the window, and many people in cities work as part-time taxi drivers to supplement their incomes.

Public transport in Bolivia

Bolivia's public transport system is quite extensive, with several options to choose from. Here is a detailed breakdown:

• Radio taxis: These taxis are connected to a central dispatcher and are generally considered safe. However, it is important to negotiate the fare before getting into the taxi to avoid being overcharged.
• Independent taxis: These are just regular folks offering taxi services in their personal vehicles. While most drivers are honest, these taxis can be unsafe for foreigners due to the lack of company oversight.
• Trufis: These are shared taxis that operate on set routes, usually identified by signs on their front windows. They are quite affordable, with fares ranging from 2 to 3 bolivianos.
• Puma Katari buses: Found in La Paz, these brown and yellow buses are a safe and affordable option, costing only 2 bolivianos per ride.
• Minis: These 15-passenger vans are similar to trufis and follow set routes. Fares typically range from 2 to 2.60 bolivianos.
• Micros: These multi-coloured, creatively painted school buses are the cheapest option, with fares starting at just 1 boliviano. However, they can get quite cramped due to standing room in the aisles.
• Trains: Bolivia's train network is quite limited, but there are a few scenic routes worth considering, such as the Ferrocarril Andino route from Oruro to Villazón on the Argentine border.
• River boats: In regions like Lago Titicaca and the Amazon, water transport is still prevalent. High-end tour agencies offer cruises, and smaller passenger launches operate between Copacabana and Isla del Sol.
• Lorries (camiones): In remote or less-travelled regions, lorries are often the primary means of transport. They are slower and less comfortable than buses but offer a unique travel experience.
• Pick-up trucks (camionetas): For shorter journeys in remote areas, pick-up trucks are a common mode of transport.
• Motorcycle taxis (moto-taxis): Found mostly in lowland cities like Trinidad, moto-taxis are a cheap and fast way to get around.

Taxi, moto-taxi, and micro

Taxis, Moto-Taxis, and Micros in Bolivia

Bolivia's public transportation system can be chaotic and challenging to navigate for visitors. However, it is an affordable and adventurous way to get around. Here is everything you need to know about taxis, moto-taxis, and micros, a common mode of transportation in Bolivia.

Taxis

Taxis are a convenient way to get around in Bolivia, especially in larger cities like La Paz, Cochabamba, and Sucre. There are two main types of taxis: radio taxis and regular taxis.

Radio taxis, also known as "radiomoviles," are registered with official taxi companies and can be identified by lighted signs on their roofs and a radio to communicate with a central dispatcher. These taxis are generally considered safer, and you can call them to pick you up from your location. They are more expensive than regular taxis, with fares ranging from USD 1 to USD 10, depending on the distance.

Regular taxis, also known as "taxis particulares," are privately owned vehicles that may or may not be clearly marked. They do not have radios and usually pick up passengers from the street. While some drivers are friendly and hospitable, there have been reports of tourists being robbed or overcharged by dishonest drivers. It is essential to agree on the fare before getting into a regular taxi, and it is advisable to carry small bills and exact change.

Moto-Taxis

Moto-taxis, or motorcycle taxis, are a common sight in Bolivian cities. They are a quick and agile way to navigate through heavy traffic or reach areas that cars cannot access. Moto-taxis usually charge a similar fare to regular taxis but can be negotiated for shorter distances. Always put on the helmet provided by the driver and hold on tight!

Micros

Micros are the multi-coloured, creatively painted school buses that run on set routes within cities. They are one of the cheapest forms of public transportation in Bolivia, with fares ranging from BOB 1 to BOB 1.50. Micros can get very crowded, with standing room in the aisles, so be prepared for a tight squeeze!

To hail a micro, simply wave it down at any point on the street. To let the driver know where you want to get off, use phrases like "Aqui, por favor!" ("Here, please!"), "En la esquina, por favor!" ("At the corner, please!"), or "Voy a bajar!" ("I'm getting down!"). You can also use a maps app on your phone to track your location and hop off when you're close to your destination.

Tips for Taking Taxis and Micros

• Always negotiate the fare before getting into a taxi or moto-taxi.
• Keep your valuables close to you and be aware of your surroundings.
• In La Paz, opt for radio taxis or use trusted ride-hailing apps like Uber for added safety.
• Micros can be unpredictable, so allow for some flexibility in your schedule.
• Be cautious when taking micros at night, as they may be targeted by thieves.

Air travel

Several airlines operate in Bolivia, offering domestic and international flights. BOA, the new government-owned carrier, mainly serves domestic routes but has started adding international destinations such as Buenos Aires, Sao Paolo, and Miami. Transporte Aéreo Militar is a military airline that also offers civilian flights to various destinations within Bolivia. International airlines serving Bolivia include LAN Airlines, American Airlines, Copa Air, Transportes Aereos del Mercosur (TAM), GOL Airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, British Airways, Lufthansa, Avianca, Air Europa, and Iberia.

When booking flights to Bolivia, it is advisable to book well in advance to get the best prices. Round-trip flights are generally more cost-effective than one-way tickets. Additionally, it is recommended to consider alternative airports and use frequent flyer miles to save money. Booking during the low season, such as in February, can also result in lower airfares.

Train travel

There are two main train lines in Bolivia: the Wara Wara del Sur and the Expreso del Sur. The Wara Wara del Sur train line offers night departures and stops at all intermediate stations. It provides passengers with a comfortable journey, including a dining wagon with a national and international menu. This train line offers three service classes: Executive, Salon, and Popular. The Executive Class features reclining chairs, pillows, blankets, individual reading lights, automatic air fresheners, personalized attention, and fully equipped bathrooms. The Salon Class has similar features but without the reclining chairs. The Popular Class has non-reclining chairs and fully equipped bathrooms.

The Expreso del Sur train line offers a direct service between Oruro and Villazon, with short stops in Uyuni-Atocha and Tupiza. It is characterized by its day departures, excellent schedule for appreciating the landscapes, and a dining wagon. The Expreso del Sur offers Executive and Salon class services, with similar features to the Wara Wara del Sur but with the addition of a centralized video-TV LCD 32".

All trains are properly equipped to ensure passenger safety, with signs and information on safety recommendations, educational videos, first aid kits, oxygen tanks, wheelchairs, fire extinguishers, and antiseptic gel.

Booking train tickets in Bolivia is straightforward, with requirements listed on travel websites. Train stations can be found in many cities, including La Paz, Uyuni, Oruro, Tupiza, Villazon, Atocha, El Alto, Yacuiba, San Jose de Chiquitos, Robore, Quijarro, Villa Montes, and more.

River travel

Bolivia is a landlocked country in South America with no seaport. The country's waterways consist of rivers and lakes, with the Paraguay River and its tributaries in the southeast and Amazon tributaries in the north and east being particularly important for transportation.

Bolivia has approximately 14,000 kilometres of navigable rivers. The principal rivers in the country include the Beni, Chapare, Desaguadero, Guaporé, Mamoré, Paraguay, and Pilcomayo.

In the Amazon region, rivers are frequently used for transportation, especially in remote areas with little alternative access. Flat barges travel along rivers such as the Mamoré and the Madre de Dios, transporting cargo like fruit and lumber between small village "ports". These ports are often basic riverbank landing areas with little infrastructure.

The Paraguay River, which forms part of the border with Argentina, is also an important waterway. The river is planned to be widened and deepened to improve access to the Atlantic.

In the Pantanal region, there are two significant port towns: Puerto Suarez and Puerto Quijarro. Bolivia also has free port privileges in Argentina, Brazil, Peru, and Chile, along with river ports in Paraguay.

Boats and Vessels

Bolivia's lakes and rivers can be travelled by barge, canoe, motorboat, fishing trawler, cruiser, reed boat, hydrofoil, or luxury tour boat.

In Lake Titicaca, small outboard motorboats and larger tour boats can be taken to the Island of the Sun and the Island of the Moon. A hydrofoil service also connects Bolivia and Peru across the lake. Fishing boats are a common sight on the lake.

An Amazon Cruise can be experienced on the "floating hotel" Reina de Enin, offering a wildlife observation tour. Smaller boats are also available for day tours along the Ibare River, ending in Chuchini.

Frequently asked questions