Austria's Fashion Evolution: 1740-1780

From 1740 to 1780, Austrian fashion was characterised by wide and low necklines, hoop skirts, and 'clogs' or platforms to lift shoes out of the mud. In the 1740s, necklines were particularly open, broad, and low, and by 1776, they were often trimmed with fine lace or ruffles. The 'open robe' also gained popularity during this time.

Skirts and hoop skirts

From 1740 to 1780, skirts in Austria were characterised by volume and width. Skirts were worn over enlarged hoops, which were made by compressing the hoop front to back and widening it side to side. This style was known as the "ellipse" and was taken to extremes as Court apparel in France, England and other countries from 1740 to 1770. In France, the style persisted until 1795.

The skirts were often worn with "clogs", which were wooden platforms hooked to the shoes to lift the wearer out of the mud. Shoes were often covered in cloth to match the dress.

The necklines of dresses were wide and low, and for the mid to upper classes, they were usually trimmed with fine lace or ruffles. The bodices were long, smooth and sharply pointed, with "stays" underneath to keep the front flat and smooth. The stays were the same shape as the bodice.

As 1780 approached, many women added frills and pleats and fancy work on the bodice, sleeves, and along the front of the "robe" (skirt).

Necklines

From 1740 to 1780, the shift (a type of undergarment) had a fitted neckline with a string to adjust how it lay around the neck. Some shifts had tiny ruffles or lace on the neck edges, which would peek out from the dress. The later version of the shift was called a chemise, which had short sleeves and a wider body to accommodate the low and varying necklines of the later era.

In 1776, women and girls' necklines were wide and low, and usually trimmed with fine lace or ruffles. The bodice featured a "stomacher", a decorative piece that had previously been used as an undergarment. As 1780 approached, women added frills, pleats and other decorations to the bodice, sleeves and front of the "robe" (skirt).

In the 1730s and 40s, necklines were more open, broad, low and curved, as modelled by Queen Marie Leczinska, sister of Louis XV.

Bodices

From 1740 to 1780, bodices were long, smooth, and sharply pointed. Stays were worn underneath to keep the front flat and smooth. These stays were the same shape as the bodice. The neckline of the bodice was wide and low, and for the mid to upper classes, it was usually trimmed with fine lace or ruffles.

A piece in the front of the bodice was called a "stomacher", which had been used for the previous century as part of the undergarments. In 1776, it became sewn into the top of the dress and was often very decorated. As 1780 approached, many women added frills and pleats and fancy work on the bodice, sleeves, and along the front of the "robe" (skirt).

The shift, a type of undergarment with sleeves that reached to or past the elbows, was often worn under the bodice and robe. The neckline of the shift was fitted and sometimes had a string to adjust how it lay around the neck. Some shifts had tiny ruffles or lace on the sleeve and neck edges so they would peek out of the dress. Later, the shift was called a "chemise", and it had short sleeves with a slight gather on top, a wider body, full-length gores, and a drawstring. This accommodated the low and varying necklines of the later era and was versatile enough to be worn with Colonial or Regency fashions.

Shoes

From 1740 to 1780, shoes in Austria were often covered in cloth to match the dress. They were also worn with "clogs", which were wooden platforms hooked to the shoes to lift the wearer out of the mud.

Shifts

From 1740 to 1780, shifts had sleeves that almost reached or went past the elbows. These would often show outside the sleeve of the robe or gown. The neckline of the shift was fitted and could be adjusted with a string. Some shifts had tiny ruffles or lace on the sleeve and neck edges, which would peek out of the dress. The later shift was called a 'chemise' and had short sleeves with a slight gather on top, a wider body, full-length gores, and a drawstring. This was to accommodate the low and varying necklines of the later era.

In 1776, women and girls' necklines were wide and low, and for the mid to upper classes, they were usually trimmed with fine lace or ruffles. There was a piece in the front of the bodice called a 'stomacher', which had been used for the previous century as part of the undergarments. In 1776, it became sewn into the top of the dress and was often very decorated. As 1780 approached, many women added frills and pleats and fancy work on the bodice, sleeves, and along the front of the 'robe' (skirt).

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