The Forbidden Frontier: Navigating Afghanistan's No-Go Zones For Tourists

Afghanistan has always been open to tourism, and it is still possible for tourists to visit the country. However, the country is currently under Taliban rule, and there are safety concerns, including the risk of terrorism, kidnapping, and wrongful detention. Many governments, including the US, UK, Ireland, and Australia, advise their citizens to avoid all travel to Afghanistan. Nevertheless, some tourists are still choosing to visit the country, and tours are available.

Visa requirements for tourists

Afghanistan requires all visitors to have a visa, except for those born in the country, including those born to at least one Afghan citizen parent or whose parent was born in Afghanistan.

The country's visa policy has been described as "sketchy" due to the political power imbalances. However, it is possible to obtain a visa, and the Taliban government has expressed a willingness to welcome foreign tourists.

• Tourist visas are typically single-entry and valid for 30 days.
• Visas can be obtained from select embassies and consulates, with varying processing times and costs.
• A letter of invitation or statement of purpose may be required.
• A passport with at least six months of validity beyond the expiry of the Afghan visa is necessary.
• There is no transit area at Kabul airport, so a transit visa is required for layovers.
• Visas can also be obtained on arrival at Hamid Karzai International Airport for business, journalism, sports, and crew members.
• The visa application fee varies but can be as high as $200.
• Visas can be extended only once by the Ministry of Interior Affairs with the approval of the Afghan Tourism Department.
• The US State Department advises against all travel to Afghanistan and has suspended operations at the US Embassy in Kabul, offering limited consular services.
• The security situation in Afghanistan is extremely volatile, with a high risk of terrorist attacks, kidnapping, and arbitrary detention of foreign nationals.
• There is a heightened threat of terrorist attacks in or around religious sites and during the holy month of Ramadan.
• Foreign nationals, including aid and humanitarian workers, face a serious threat of kidnapping and detention without due process.
• Medical facilities are limited, and sanitation and hygiene are poor.
• There is a risk of insect-borne and waterborne diseases, including malaria and polio.
• Local laws and customs must be respected, and conservative dress codes should be followed.
• Same-sex relationships and proselytizing are illegal.
• It is illegal to import or consume alcohol and pork products.
• Photography of government buildings, military sites, and local people without their consent is prohibited.

Overall, while Afghanistan is open to tourists and visas are obtainable, it is essential to carefully consider the risks and take necessary precautions. The security and health situation is dangerous, and consular support may be limited in the event of an emergency.

Safety concerns and travel advisories

Afghanistan has always been open for tourism, and visas have always been issued at the respective embassies. However, since the Taliban took control of the country in 2021, several governments have advised their citizens to avoid travelling to Afghanistan. The US State Department, for instance, has issued a Level 4: Do Not Travel advisory, and the UK also strongly advises its citizens not to travel there. The Taliban has brought relative peace to Afghanistan, but there are still security issues, with regular attacks by the terror group ISIS.

The Australian government advises its citizens to do the following if they are in Afghanistan:

> "Stay in a safe place and limit your movements.

> Adopt effective personal security measures.

> Always be alert and aware of your surroundings, especially in large crowds.

> Vary your routines so your movements don't become obvious to others.

> Make contingency plans to leave when it's safe to do so."

The Australian government also warns that foreigners, including Australians, are at serious risk of kidnapping or detention. The Taliban has increasingly harassed and detained international and local aid and humanitarian workers. The Taliban is suspicious of foreigners working or travelling in Afghanistan, and it is likely that their work and movements will be closely monitored. Reasons for detention may be unclear, and communication with your next of kin may not be possible.

The Irish government also advises against all travel to Afghanistan, citing the extremely volatile security situation and high risk of terrorist attacks. They also highlight the heightened risk of arbitrary detention of foreign nationals in Afghanistan.

The US State Department warns that multiple terrorist groups are active in the country and that US citizens are targets of kidnapping and wrongful detentions. The Department has assessed that there is a risk of wrongful detention of US citizens by the Taliban. The Taliban has harassed and detained aid and humanitarian workers. The activities of foreigners may be viewed with suspicion, and reasons for detention may be unclear. Even if registered with the appropriate authorities to conduct business, the risk of detention is high.

Despite the dangers, some travellers are still visiting Afghanistan. Travel vlogger Kristijan Iličić, for instance, said that the opportunity to be a tourist in Afghanistan was too interesting to turn down. James Willcox, co-founder of tourism company Untamed Borders, has been leading groups to Afghanistan since 2008 and made his first trip under Taliban rule in 2022. He said:

> "Generally speaking, the country feels and is just a lot safer since I've ever worked there."

Travel insurance options

Although it is not a legal requirement to take out travel insurance for Afghanistan, it is highly recommended that you do so. The cost of healthcare in Afghanistan can be high, and travel insurance will help mitigate the risk of having to cover those costs yourself.

VisitorsCoverage

VisitorsCoverage is a pioneering Silicon Valley insurtech company that offers comprehensive medical coverage for travellers. It lets you choose between various plans tailored to meet specific needs, including coverage for medical emergencies, trip cancellations, and travel disruptions. With its easy online purchase process and 24/7 live chat support, VisitorsCoverage is a reliable and convenient option.

Insured Nomads

Insured Nomads is a good option for adventurous travellers or those who are frequently on the go. It offers solid trip insurance with some coverage for medical incidents. With Insured Nomads, you can choose the level of protection that best suits your needs and enjoy benefits such as 24/7 assistance, coverage for risky activities, and the ability to add or remove coverage as needed.

SafetyWing

SafetyWing is a good insurance option for younger travellers or digital nomads. It offers flexible but comprehensive coverage at an affordable price. With SafetyWing, you can enjoy peace of mind knowing you're covered for unexpected medical expenses, trip cancellations, lost or stolen luggage, and more. Unlike VisitorsCoverage, you can even purchase a policy retroactively.

High Risk Voyager Travel Insurance

High Risk Voyager Travel Insurance provides cover for destinations where the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) advises against 'all travel' or 'all but essential travel'. Their policy includes emergency medical expenses of up to £1,000,000, emergency medical evacuation/repatriation of up to £1,000,000, cancellation cover of up to £1,500, and baggage cover of up to £1,500.

IATI Insurance

IATI Insurance is one of the few companies that covers travel in Afghanistan. They have a range of different plans for all types of travellers.

Transportation and accommodation

Transportation

Afghanistan has a good network of buses, minibuses and local shared taxis connecting towns and cities. Experienced budget backpackers won't find it difficult to move around the country.

Taking a domestic flight is also a good option for travelling around Afghanistan. Taking a domestic flight is also a good option for travelling around the country. You can book your tickets online on Kam Air. There’s another local airline named Ariana. That’s the one I use for flying from Kandahar to Kabul.

Note that all domestic flights go through Kabul, and that there’s no direct flight from Herat to Mazar, for example, or from Herat to Kandahar, but you need to go through Kabul.

Typically, all flights cost $60-$120 and, if you are already in Afghanistan, I strongly recommend booking it through a physical Kam Air office.

It is also possible to get around Afghanistan by car. However, you should be aware that vehicles are poorly maintained, often overloaded, and traffic laws are not enforced. Vehicular traffic is chaotic and must contend with numerous pedestrians, bicyclists, and animals. Many urban streets have large potholes and are not well lit. Rural roads are not paved.

With congested roads and abundant pedestrian traffic, vehicle accidents are a serious concern and can escalate into violent confrontations.

Commercial transporters sometimes decline to provide services to insecure areas.

Accommodation

Hotels in Afghanistan can be expensive. Expect to pay anything between $30 and $50 for a room, a relatively basic one but clean and with security. You can definitely find cheaper hotels but there won’t be any kind of security.

• Intercontinental Hotel Kabul
• Kabul Serena Hotel
• Safi Landmark Hotel & Suites
• Kabul Star Hotel & Restaurant
• The Baron - Kabul
• Darya Village Hotel and Business Park
• Afghans4Tomorrow Guest House
• Park Star Hotel

Local laws and customs

Afghanistan is an Islamic country, and its laws and customs are heavily influenced by this. Sharia law is the supreme law of the land, and it is interpreted according to the Hanafi jurisprudential school. This means that Islamic customs and dress are universally respected, and visitors should be careful to respect these traditions at all times.

During the holy month of Ramadan, Muslims are not permitted to eat, drink, or smoke during daylight hours. To avoid causing offence, you should not do these things in public during this time.

Afghanistan has a strict moral code, and public displays of affection may be frowned upon. Women are expected to be fully covered in public, including their faces, hair, arms, and legs. They are also not permitted to move around or travel without being accompanied by a male relative, such as a husband, father, or brother.

Homosexuality is illegal in Afghanistan, and same-sex relationships are punishable by imprisonment, lashing, or the death penalty.

It is illegal to import or use narcotics, alcohol, or pork products.

Photography of certain buildings, such as government buildings, military installations, and palaces, is prohibited and may lead to detention. It is also illegal to photograph local people without their permission.

Afghanistan has a high rate of insect-borne diseases, such as malaria and leishmaniasis. Waterborne, foodborne, and other infectious diseases are also common, including polio. Medical facilities are limited, and sanitation and hygiene are poor.

The standard of driving is poor, and most local drivers are uninsured. The roads are in very poor condition, and there is a high risk of accidents due to unexploded weapons, landmines, and improvised explosive devices (IEDs).

Frequently asked questions