Exploring Brunei: Is It Worth The Visit?

Brunei is a small, wealthy nation on the island of Borneo, known for its serene landscapes and rich cultural heritage. It is a unique blend of tradition and modernity, where the people enjoy the highest per capita incomes in the world, free healthcare and education, and subsidised housing and cars.

The country is ruled by an absolute monarchy, with the Sultan of Brunei being the world's richest monarch. The official religion is Islam, and the country adheres to conservative Islamic social values.

Brunei is known for its stunning mosques, lush national parks, and serene beaches. The best time to visit is between March and October, during the drier months, with January to May being the ideal period to experience the local culture and enjoy outdoor activities.

The country has strict laws and regulations that visitors should be aware of, including prohibitions on alcohol, pornography, and public displays of affection. It is also important to dress modestly and respect local customs and traditions.

Overall, Brunei offers a fascinating blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and modern conveniences, making it a worthwhile destination for those seeking a unique travel experience in Southeast Asia.

How to get to Brunei

Brunei is situated in Southeast Asia on the island of Borneo. It is bordered by Sarawak, Malaysia, and sits along the South China Sea.

Most people arrive in Brunei by air. The country's main airport is Brunei International Airport (BWN). The national carrier, Royal Brunei Airlines, offers flights daily to Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and London.

If you are flying from Europe or North America, expect multiple connections and long flight times. From London, the flight time is around 16 hours 30 minutes, and from New York, it's upwards of 20 hours.

You can also travel to Brunei by car, bus, or boat.

By Car

It is possible to drive into Brunei from Sarawak, Malaysia, via the Pan Borneo Highway. There are two entry points: Miri at Sungai Tujuh and Limbang at Kuala Lurah, where you'll find drive-through immigration checkpoints.

By Bus

Bus services are available from Miri (Sarawak, Malaysia) to Kula Belait in Brunei, operated by the Miri Belait Transportation Company. A bus change is required at the border checkpoint of Sungei Tujoh.

There are also buses from Kuala Belait to Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei, but these require a switch in Seria, and the journey can take up to six hours.

By Boat

The Serasa Ferry Terminal in Muara is the main ferry terminal in Brunei. Ferries travel daily between Muara and Labuan, and there is also a daily service to Sundar and Lawas in Sarawak.

Water taxis, or river taxis, are also available from Bandar Seri Begawan to Limbang and Lawas in Malaysia.

Border Crossings

The most commonly used border crossings from Malaysian Sarawak into Brunei are at Puni/Limbang and Labu/Lawas. There are additional crossings at Sungai Tujoh/Miri and Kuala Lurah/Limbang.

Where to stay in Brunei

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei, is a great place to base yourself for a trip to this small but mighty country. The city is home to a range of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to affordable guesthouses and hostels. Here are some recommendations for where to stay in Brunei:

• The Empire Brunei is a highly-rated hotel boasting spacious facilities, private beaches, golf courses, and a large central pool overlooking the sea. It offers clean, well-equipped rooms with superb sea views.
• The Capital Residence Suites is a lovely hotel in a central location near the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Royal Regalia Museum. It offers free airport transfers and shuttle services to popular sites, as well as complimentary breakfast. The rooms are cozy and comfortable, and the staff are friendly.
• Radisson Hotel Brunei Darussalam is perfectly located for walking to downtown, the waterfront, and the Royal Museum. It offers clean, spacious rooms with comfortable beds and excellent amenities.
• The Rizqun International Hotel has comfortable rooms and a children's play area, as well as a toddler play area just below their extensive gym.
• The Centrepoint Hotel is centrally located with many shopping and eating places within walking distance. It offers spacious, clean rooms and a decent selection of local food at the buffet breakfast.
• Rimbun Suites & Residences is situated in Bandar Seri Begawan and offers private pools and pool views from its 5-star apartments.
• Coconut Bay Lodge is located in Bandar Seri Begawan and offers a garden and mountain views. It has an on-site restaurant, free private parking, and free WiFi.
• D'Anggerek Serviced Apartment is set in Bandar Seri Begawan and offers free WiFi, a 24-hour front desk, and a concierge service. It is located close to The Mall and the Royal Regalia Museum.
• 22 Hours Hostel is located within 400 meters of The Mall and 2.4 km from the Hua Ho Department Store. It offers a shared kitchen and free WiFi throughout the property.
• Sea View Resort Hotel & Apartments is situated in Kuala Belait and features an outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi, and a restaurant. It is a good option if you want to be close to the Boulevard Shopping Complex.
• Qing yun resthouse Bandar, Brunei Darussalam is located within 500 meters of the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanai Bolkiah Shopping Complex and 700 meters of the Royal Regalia Museum. It offers air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms and free WiFi.
• Wafa Hotel & Apartment is a 4-star accommodation located in Kampong Mata Mata, offering a restaurant, a water park, and a year-round outdoor pool. It is a good option if you want to be close to The Mall and the Hua Ho Department Store.

Things to do in Brunei

Brunei may divide travellers—some blast it as dull and uninspiring, while others find it underrated and full of activities for intrepid travellers. Here is a list of things to do in Brunei, a unique blend of traditional culture and luxury.

Day 1: Explore Bandar Seri Begawan

Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital city of Brunei, is home to many attractions within walking distance of each other. Start your day at the Royal Regalia Museum, which showcases the history and culture of the Bruneian monarchy. See the gilded carriage that carried the newly crowned Sultan through the streets of the capital, along with gold and silver ceremonial armour. Entry to the museum costs $5 BND for foreigners.

Next, head to the Arts and Handicrafts Centre to browse local jewellery, woven fabric, and traditional souvenirs. Then, walk over to the Tamu Kianggeh, the local wet market, to shop for exotic fruits, medicinal herbs, dried fish, and spices.

For dinner, try the national dish of Brunei, ambuyat, at Aminah Arif. Ambuyat is made from the interior of a sago palm and is eaten with a special type of fork called candas. It is flavourless on its own, so be sure to order some dips and sauces to accompany it!

Day 2: Mosques and the Gadong Food Market

Start your day by visiting the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, one of the most impressive mosques in South-East Asia. Named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei, it features a glittering dome covered in real gold, stained glass windows, Italian marble, and chandeliers from the U.K. Entry is free, but remember to dress appropriately and remove your shoes before entering.

Next, visit the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, built to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Sultan's reign. This mosque features unique and modern architectural design, with 29 golden domes and four minarets.

In the afternoon, head to the Gadong Food Market, one of the loveliest food market experiences with clean spaces and amazing food served by friendly locals. Try some grilled fish, potato, sweet corn with butter, and refreshing juices.

Day 3: Boat Trip to Kampong Ayer and Ulu Temburong National Park

Take a boat trip to Kampong Ayer, the largest water village in the world, with over 40 traditional villages built on stilts above the Brunei River. More than 30,000 people inhabit this settlement, which also includes schools, mosques, shops, and even a hospital.

After exploring Kampong Ayer, head to Ulu Temburong National Park, also known as the 'Green Jewel of Brunei'. This beautiful rainforest offers stunning views and opportunities for hiking, jungle trekking, and wildlife watching.

Other Attractions:

• Istana Nurul Iman: The lavish Royal Palace of the Sultan of Brunei, with 1,788 rooms and golden domes. It is open to the public for three days a year during the Hari Raya celebrations.
• Tasek Lama Recreational Park: A family-friendly park with a natural waterfall, rest stops, a children's playground, and marked paths for hiking.
• Our Lady of the Assumption Church: A place of worship for Christians in Brunei.
• Pantai Seri Kenangan: A beach known for its beautiful sunsets and peaceful atmosphere.

Brunei offers a mix of cultural, historical, and natural attractions that will leave visitors with a deeper understanding of this unique country.

Brunei's food and drink scene

Traditional Bruneian Delicacies:

Bruneian cuisine shares similarities with Malay cuisine and is often quite spicy. Some must-try traditional dishes include:

• Ambuyat: Brunei's national dish, made from the starchy trunk of the sago palm tree, served sticky and dipped in a spicy and sour gravy.
• Nasi Katok: Literally meaning "knock rice," this dish includes plain rice, fried chicken, and sambal, a spicy relish made from ground chili peppers and various secondary ingredients. It is a beloved, affordable staple, often costing only $1.
• Wajid Temburong: A delicacy made with glutinous sticky rice, coconut milk, and sugar, wrapped in phyrinium leaves.
• Kueh: Various traditional sweet snacks, such as kueh lenggang (a pandan-coloured crepe filled with grated coconut and sugar) and kueh kusui (a soft cake made with palm sugar and rice flour).
• Satay: Grilled skewered meat, a popular choice at open-air markets and night markets.
• Pulut Panggang: Glutinous rice stuffed with beef or prawns, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled.
• Soto: A comforting soupy dish of noodles or rice vermicelli topped with chicken or beef, garnished with chillies and herbs.

Diverse Cuisines:

Brunei boasts a diverse selection of restaurants offering various international cuisines, including traditional Malay, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, and European dishes.

Coffee and Café Culture:

In recent years, Brunei has embraced coffee culture, with a growing number of cafés serving sophisticated coffee and tea beverages.

Street Food and Food Courts:

For those who enjoy eating on the go, Brunei's street markets and food courts offer a medley of cuisines and tasty street food options, including grilled chicken, satay, and an assortment of snacks.

Non-Halal Options:

While the majority of restaurants in Brunei serve halal food due to the predominance of the Islamic religion, there are also non-halal eateries, mostly casual dining places serving stir-fried Chinese-style food, roasted meat, and BBQ options.

Drinks:

Common drinks in Brunei include coconut milk, fruit juice, tea, milk tea, and coffee. However, it is important to note that alcohol is prohibited in the country, although small quantities may be imported if reported to Customs.

Desserts:

For those with a sweet tooth, Brunei offers desserts like Air Batu Campur (ABC), a sweet dessert-drink combining ice, sago pearls, red beans, noodles, and grass jelly.

Whether you're dining in restaurants, exploring street food, or indulging in sweet treats, Brunei's food and drink scene promises a delightful culinary journey full of flavour and cultural influences.

Brunei's LGBTQ+ laws

Brunei has a dual legal system with both Sharia and Common Law. In 2014, the country introduced Sharia law, which was met with widespread condemnation. The first phase covered crimes punishable by prison sentences and fines. The second phase, which covers crimes punishable by amputation and stoning, was rolled out in April 2019.

Under Brunei's interpretation of Sharia law, homosexuality is illegal and is punishable by death. Anal sex and adultery are considered offences and are punishable by stoning to death. Lesbian sex carries a different penalty of 40 strokes of the cane and/or a maximum of 10 years in jail.

The implementation of these laws has sparked international condemnation, with celebrities such as George Clooney and Ellen DeGeneres calling for a boycott of luxury hotels with links to Brunei. Clooney described the laws as "human rights violations".

The death penalty has not been enforced in Brunei since 1957, and the country's ruler, Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, has extended a moratorium on the death penalty to cover the new legislation. However, the moratorium could be lifted at any time, as the sultan is an absolute monarch with full executive power.

The LGBT community in Brunei is very hidden and secret, and Bruneian society tends to associate homosexuality with "effeminate men". LGBT Bruneians feel the need to remain discreet about their sexual orientation, and international human rights activists have advised them to remain discreet in the country.

Frequently asked questions