Wine Appreciation: Austrian Vineyard Communes Explored

Austria's wine-growing regions are concentrated in the eastern part of the country, with four major wine regions: Lower Austria, Burgenland, Styria, and Vienna. These regions are further divided into 17 specific wine-growing areas, including smaller regions such as Weinviertel, Kamptal, Kremstal, and Wachau. Austrian wines are known for their quality and diversity, with a range of grape varieties and styles, from dry white wines to sweet dessert wines and robust reds. The country has a long history of winemaking, with evidence of grape growing dating back thousands of years. The unique climatic and geological conditions in each region contribute to the distinct character and personality of Austrian wines.

Wine taverns and tasting rooms

Wine taverns, or 'Heuriger', are a common feature of Austria's wine regions. The name is an abbreviation of 'heuriger Wein', meaning 'this year's wine', and the taverns are usually only open for a few weeks a year. In 1784, Austrian Emperor Joseph II issued a decree that permitted residents to serve self-produced wine and cold food in these establishments. By custom, a decorated bouquet made from brushwood or straw and a lamp are hung at the entrance of a 'Heuriger' to indicate that it is open.

'Buschenschank' is the term used for a similar type of traditional wine tavern in rural areas throughout Austria. The name means 'bush tavern' or 'bough tavern', referring to the boughs hung over the door to indicate that wine is being served. By law, a 'Buschenschank' can only serve cold food, usually in the form of local cold cuts of meat, cheeses, and breads, alongside wine produced by the owner.

In Vienna, Lower Austria, and Burgenland, it has become more common to refer to wine taverns as 'Heuriger', while in Styria, they are more often called 'Buschenschank'.

Wine taverns are often attached to wineries, where visitors can tour the production facilities and cellars, and taste wines in spectacular tasting rooms.

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board

Austria has a long history of winemaking, with archaeological evidence of grape growing in Traisental dating back 4,000 years. The country's winegrowing regions boast beautiful landscapes of mountains, lakes, lush green meadows, and great cities. The most important factor for the exceptional quality of Austrian wines is the country's unique geographic setting.

Austria has three major wine-growing regions: Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), Burgenland, and Steiermark (Styria). In addition, there are 16 smaller wine regions, including Wien (Vienna). Austrian wines can be classified as DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), which is the legal abbreviation for special region-typical quality wines.

Austrian wines are now highly prized by wine experts and lovers worldwide, with a distinctive tension common to all of them. The country's commitment to environmental protection, water purity, healthy and GMO-free food, biodiversity, and energy and materials efficiency further enhances the reputation of its wine industry.

Vineyard topography and soil types

Lower Austria, the largest wine-growing region, is characterised by its location in the Danube Valley between the towns of Melk and Krems. The region features very steep terraces with primary granite rock soils, layers of loess, and gneiss. The combination of western Atlantic and eastern Pannonian climatic influences further shapes the wine-growing conditions in this region.

Burgenland, known for its hot, continental Pannonian climate, has diverse soil types across its four sub-regions. The Neusiedlersee sub-region is characterised by loess, black earth, gravel, and sandy sediment. In contrast, the Leithaberg/Neusiedlersee-Huegelland sub-region has layers of granite primary rock, chalk, and lime. The Mittelburgenland sub-region, known for its red wines, has heavy, dense, and deep loamy layers. Finally, the Eisenberg/Suedburgenland sub-region is distinguished by its dense, iron-rich soils.

Styria, located in the Central Eastern Alps, offers a range of soil types due to its geological composition. The region includes volcanic basalts, scoria, and tuffs in the southeast sector, covering about 3% of the vineyards. The remaining areas feature a mix of silts, marls, sands, gravels, boulder debris, sandstones, and conglomerates. The diverse rock types found in the Central Eastern Alps include gneiss, mica schist, phyllite, amphibolite, rare marbles, and limestones.

In addition to the major wine-growing regions, Vienna, the capital, also has vineyards within its city limits. The city's limestone soils towards Klosterneuburg are suitable for cultivating Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc, while the rich soil south of the city favours red grape varieties.

Austrian wine laws

The 1985 Antifreeze Scandal

In 1985, it was revealed that several Austrian wineries had illegally adulterated their wines with diethylene glycol, a toxic substance found in antifreeze. This scandal destroyed the market for Austrian wines and led to a complete collapse of exports. As a result, Austria tightened its wine laws and repositioned itself as a producer of quality wines.

The Austrian Wine Marketing Board

In response to the 1985 scandal, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board was established in 1986. This board works to promote and market Austrian wines, both domestically and internationally.

EU Wine Laws and Regulations

As a member of the European Union, Austria's wine laws are integrated into the EU's hierarchical structure of wine laws and regulations. The EU wine market organisational regulation applies to all member states and covers various aspects, including planting rights, subsidies, market interventions, permitted oenological practices, protected origins, and labelling laws.

DAC System of Geographical Appellations

Austria has adopted the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) system, which is similar to the French AOC or Italian DOCG. DAC is a geographical appellation awarded to wines typical of their region by regional wine committees. There are currently ten DACs in Austria, recognising specific wine-growing regions and grape varieties.

National Classification System

Austria's national classification system for wines is based on the German system, with modifications made after 1985. The system categorises wines into different quality levels based on factors such as sugar content, alcohol content, and production methods. The categories include Tafelwein, Landwein, Qualitätswein, Kabinett, Prädikatswein and its sub-categories (Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, etc.).

Maximum Permitted Yield

The maximum permitted yield in Austria is 10,000 kg of grapes per hectare or 75 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha). This regulation ensures that vineyards do not exceed sustainable production levels and maintain the quality of their wines.

Klosterneuburg Must Weight Scale (KMW)

The KMW scale measures the sugar content of grape must, with 1 °KMW roughly equalling 5 °Oe on the Öchsle scale. This scale is used to classify wines within the national classification system and determine their quality level.

Residual Sugar Content

Federal Inspection Number and Capsule

Austrian Qualitätswein, regionally typical wines (DAC), and Prädikatswein undergo rigorous inspections, including chemical analysis and tasting by qualified wine tasters. These wines are identified by a Federal Inspection Number and a red-white-red capsule.

Wine with Protected Designation of Origin

The Wachau Valley

The valley's agricultural landscape is primarily used for the cultivation of vines and apricot trees, with vineyard terraces that have been preserved for over 1,000 years. The Vinea Wachau, an association of vintners founded in 1983, has created categories for Wachau wine classification, and their products are labelled under the categories of Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. The Wachau Valley is recognised as the "Wachau Cultural Landscape" on the UNESCO List of World Heritage Sites, acknowledging its architectural and agricultural history.

Frequently asked questions